“Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter”
Izaak Walton
I kept a diligent watch for uncharted coral heads as Jerry steered White Dove through Te Ava Nui Pass into Bora Bora’s variegated blue lagoon. Romance, Escapade, and Holding Pattern sat at anchor near the yacht club, awaiting our arrival. Checking in on the Seafarer’s ham radio net while crossing the Pacific from Mexico to French Polynesia, we had become acquainted with several sailors all following the Coconut Milk Run. Each landfall brought reunions with these surrogate families, sharing adventures, assistance, potlucks, and holidays , so far from home.
Enchanted starlit evenings with the rhythm of drums and melodious swell of Polynesian voices drew us ashore for singing and dancing competitions. Fete was in full swing. Children from five to eighteen, wearing colorful hip-hugging skirts and flowered belts with matching tops, performed first. Leis and heads adorned with flowery wreaths swayed to the music, hands telling the history of these ancient seafarers. Another night tall, tattooed men, bare chests glistening, stomped to the beat of several toeres-hollow wooden drums. It was the Tamure, a fast, erotic dance that quickened pulses. Females wore elaborate headdresses woven with feathers, shells, and flowers above their waist-length dark hair. Brown eyes and full lips smiled warmly as they danced to more complex choreography—hips rotating, long grass skirts swishing, hands weaving intricate patterns.
A group of us cruisers delighted in a day of cycling the 32-kilometer level road encircling the main island. Breath-taking views of the twin basalt peaks soared above. Inland slopes and valleys blossomed with hibiscus and bougainvillea. Among our stops were:
—American Naval guns left from the WWII base fascinated the guys.
—Intriguing maraes built from coral slabs and basalt rocks. These open-air grounds were mainly reserved for religious ceremonies, but also marriages, war councils, peace treaties, and more. Occasionally human sacrifices of captured enemies were performed on the ahu-the temple platform. Thankfully these practices ended with the introduction of Christianity in the early 1800s.
—Cheeseburgers at infamous Bloody Mary’s accompanied by American 60’s music. Dirt floors, a thatched roof, sink and urinal waterfalls, and tall carved tiki heads enhanced the ambiance.
Several days were spent anchored in 10-feet of swimming-pool water at secluded Motu Pitiaau. This narrow reef islet sits atop the atoll surrounding Bora Bora. Churning ocean lies on one side, the peaceful lagoon on the other. While strolling the beach we met a welcoming family living among the coconut palms in weathered huts. Hitiona invited us to sit, introducing his wife, Haumata, plus several children and grandkids. Communication was a mix of broken English, smattering of French and Tahitian, and lots of charades! In our many visits together, we exchanged small toys, candy, and school supplies for coconuts and fishing lessons on the reef using a harpoon, plus observing their free dives for octopus, shellfish, and crabs. Life is primitive, simple, and isolated, although some young adults move away to attend college.
A captivating day of snorkeling the Aquarium, located at one end of the motu, will not be forgotten. A slow-moving current wound us through tight valleys, passing coral forests of many shapes and colors, dazzling fish who swam up to our faces, and fat purple starfish with orange spikes. The experience transcended my imagination. I wanted to laugh out loud—not a smart idea underwater! While embraced in the ocean’s warm womb, I reflected on all the people God has gifted into our lives. Wonderful friends from home we are missing; cruising friends that share this unique period of time with us; new friends from diverse cultures who teach us so much about the world and ourselves. The places we have visited are remarkable, but the charming, generous people we have met are truly what the journey is all about.
The Cruiser’s Life
Cruising, where we meet new friends
Potluck parties are the trend
Awaiting letters old friends send
Oh, it’s the cruiser’s life for me
Snorkel, cycling, watch the whales
Music jams and hike the trails
Up the anchor, raise the sails
Oh, it’s the cruiser’s life for me
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