A labyrinth of waterways wound past islands clothed in limestone cliffs, canopy of jungles, and occasional beach. WHITE DOVE dropped anchored in Niafu, the Port of Refuge, on the main island of Vava’u. Thirty-four islands made up this northern group in Tonga nudging the International Date Line. Jerry and I lost track of time amid our adventures of snorkeling, feasts, and reunions with several cruising friends met from Mexico through Polynesia. This sailing mecca presented a diversity of anchorages only an hour or so apart. Several charter companies offered day sails or extended vacations whether bare-boating or with a captain/crew.
Fragrant vanilla pods permeated Niafu as we stocked up at their excellent outdoor produce market, savoring our first juicy watermelon in six months. Local craft booths exhibited an extensive array of woven baskets in all shapes and sizes made from tan, brown, black , and white pandanus leaves. I packed quite a few on our boat, using to store produce and shells. Also popular was tapa cloth made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree. After beaten paper-thin, it was hand-painted with natural dyes.
On Friday evenings many yachties converged at Anna’s Cafe for happy hour, cheering on boat racers in the harbor and enjoying a local band. Sundays found us attending the Free Wesleyan Church. Tongan men and women dressed in the traditional ta’ovala, a skirt of finely woven pandanus matting. Half of the congregation made up the harmonic choir, captivating us with dark warm eyes, shy smiles, and heart-felt singing. The long sermon spoken in their language was a small price to pay for experiencing their faith and joy.
One afternoon after service a group of us were invited to a feast at Isaiah’s home in Pangai Village. We sat on mats, passing large clam shells brimming with roasted pig, fish, corned beef, oysters, octopus, breadfruit, taro, sweet potatoes, and papaya, all baked with coconut cream sauce in their umu- an underground oven. Plates were large palm leaves, cutlery our fingers!
Niafu was interesting, but the majority of time was spent exploring various numbered anchorages. See Part 2 for a list of these and more adventures.
As you go through this day, look for tiny treasures strategically placed along the way. I lovingly go before you and plant little pleasures to brighten your day.
From “Peace In His Presence” by Sarah Young
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