Everyone needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to body and soul.
John Muir
My husband and I ventured to Maine to explore Acadia National Park and visit the famous Bass Harbor Lighthouse whose idyllic photograph had beckoned me for years. What we discovered in early October 2017 was so much more—a rich maritime history mingling in quaint fishing villages; islands scattered like gems among a sapphire-blue ocean; diversified woodlands showing off their fall splendor; an abundance of wildlife, and more.
From Ellsworth our Freelander wound its way along sparsely populated Highway 1 to Mountain View Campground in Flander’s Bay . Set on a bluff, lobster boats chugged out of the cove each morning, returning at dusk, with Cadillac Mountain looming across the wide expanse of Frenchman’s Bay.
Acadia’s 27-mile Park View Loop road began at Hull’s Cove Visitor Center and snaked around Mount Desert Island’s main portion of the national park. Giant granite slabs stepping-stoned downward to Thunder Hole where waves boomed through a blow-hole. Crabs, periwinkles, and sea anemones thrived in nearby velvety-red tide pools. Sunlight danced on the water at Otter Point as we enjoyed a picnic. Seals playfully barked and seagulls glided lazily on the briny breeze.
Historic stone bridges spanned broken-stone carriage roads giving a glimpse into an earlier era at Jordan’s Pond. Modes of transportation included bicycles and horses, but no cars. An easy trail provided excellent views of the crystal-clear pond and Bubble Mountains. An amazing day ended on Cadillac Mountain. At 1,500-feet, highest point in Maine, it boasted a gorgeous panorama of bays, islands, and lakes.
A third section of Acadia NP is found on Schoodic Peninsula. Quieter and less traveled, the National Scenic Byway meanders past enchanting ocean views; small fishing villages where colorful buoys,glass balls, and lobster traps decorate front yards; and woodlands alive with birdsong amidst fall foliage. On the wharf at the tiny marina in Winter Harbor we encountered a friendly young fisherman whose legacy of fishing and lobstering spans generations. “The money is great,” he admitted, “but battling storms and frigid temps can be a bit much at times.” Further along the road in Corea, built around its picturesque fishing harbor, I devoured my first, but not last lobster roll, dining alfresco.
The only sounds on Flander’s Pond were our paddles swishing through the water and an occasional loon. In solitude in the crisp air with eagles, turtles, and beavers. a little slice of heaven.
A day in Brooklin, the “boat-building capital of the world”, was a highlight for my sailor husband, who renovated our cruising sailboat and is currently building a 10-foot sailing dinghy. We accepted an invitation into a boathouse where the builder proudly described the intricacies of a 92-f00t yacht in progress from the vantage point of scaffolding high above .
Driving through a misty rain took us northward to Lubec where West Quoddy Lighthouse has stood as a beacon of hope and warning for ships since 1808. Trekking a nearby trail where ferns, firs, and pines proliferate, reminded me of Oregon’s forests. High on a bluff overlooking the Bay of Fundy, we sighted with binoculars the International Bridge, spanning the eastern-most point in the U.S. with New Brunswick, Canada.
Off Sunshine Road on Deer Island is a unique tearoom and store, Nervous Nellie’s, where you can sample over 15 yummy homemade jams. Then wander a fantasy land of trails where whimsical sculptures delight the young and old. On a rainy day you can wander through The Big Chicken Barn. This humongous antiquarian book dealer and antique shop offered everything from armoires to nautical paraphernalia, rare books to sleds.
The gate shut behind us as we drove away from the campground. It was the end of the season, shops and restaurants closing, and many locals heading south to warmer temperatures. Jerry and I had come to Maine for the gorgeous scenery and hadn’t been disappointed, but additionally grateful for the abundance of experiences. The fresh seafood alone could lure me back, but also its maritime ambience, friendly locals, and rugged beauty.
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