110 miles. That’s how far we were from Opua, our port of Entry to New Zealand, when the unthinkable happened. We lost our rudder. Solving that dilemma is another story which I’ll share on my next blog—”Rudderless in the S. Pacific.”
The next four days were an exhausting blur. With Jerry’s ingenuity he jury-rigged our self-steering windvane to act as a temporary boat rudder . We slowly resumed our voyage beating through 30+knot winds and confused 9-foot seas. Our introduction to Kiwi hospitality began via ham radio contact with Russell Radio. Every 2-4 hours the calm, uplifting voice of Des offered advice and encouragement plus connected us to other yachties and updated weather reports.
Unable to hold our course as we neared the Bay of Islands, friends and locals convened at The Boathouse, a referral center for NZ boaters and visiting cruisers. Everyone donated time and money, creating a rescue plan to tow White Dove the final 18-miles. Jim Ashbey, a local boatyard owner, volunteered Olga, his newly built 60+foot trawler. All he requested for the 12-hour trip in deteriorating conditions was a few deckhands and money for fuel. Thanks to our cruising brothers and many strangers whom shared the bond of boating, we reached our destination.
Opua and its surrounding region is all rugged shoreline, rolling hills and grassy pastures with grazing sheep. Rivers and forested trails meander through the lushness where Pohutukawa- the NZ Christmas tree, ancient Kauri, Norfolk Pine, and giant tree ferns thrive in the coastal climate. My favorite tramping path which I walked almost daily was the Opua-Pahia Coastal Walkway. It was 5-km following coastline from the car ferry ramp to Pahia’s beach. There were pleasant views over the bay, sandy beaches, and a mangrove boardwalk. Other nearby tramping included Harrison Scenic Reserve Walk, 1.4-km with some of the best coastal forest in the Bay of Islands. It’s accessible via the coastal walkway at Cherry Bay or Broadview Road, Opua. A 3rd choice is Opua Forest Lookout Track, a 1.5-km tramp through regenerating forest to a gorgeous lookout over the bay.
The small village of Opua is tucked into an inlet on the mainland of North Island. There is a tiny Post Office, a couple of boatyards with marine stores (of course!), and a general store. A 10-minute taxi gets you to Pahia where thankfully, there was a full-sized grocery, restaurants, and tourist shops hugging the beach and wharf.
Anchoring yachties parked their dinghies at the dock of the Opua Cruising Club. This favorite hangout provided cruisers with 25-cent hot showers which felt amazing after bucket and solar showers for months! There was also a book-trading library and long-awaited mail collection service. They hosted a Thanksgiving potluck for 200 cruisers with a barbecued pig and turkey followed by a lively Kiwi band for dancing. At Christmas our “cruising family” gathered for carols, lots of scrumptious food, of course, and a used boat parts gift exchange. Celebrating these holidays in a foreign land was made less painful due to this kind-hearted local community. It also helped that everyone spoke English!
Kiwi generosity again surfaced when tragedy struck a family we’d met while in the S. Pacific. Jack, and his son, John, while on a parts run with a local, were involved in a serious car accident. Jack died instantly and 16-year-old John was hospitalized with back injuries. This family had crossed oceans and battled many storms unscathed, only to reach what cruisers and landlubbers alike perceive as “the safety of land.” Only one of several reasons to pursue your dreams today, for we know not what tomorrow brings.
The Boathouse immediately offered a car so we could visit John and see to his needs until his mom arrived from the U.S. Linda had taken a couple months off Teresa J to spend time with her aging parents. A few days later we rode back to Whangarei with friends for another hospital visit along with other business. A cruising friend’s sister lived south of there. We not only spent a luxurious night in her home savoring a lovely meal, hours of conversation, a queen-sized bed, and full bath, but she left a key under the mat. Her home was open to us anytime—even if she wasn’t there!
People come from around the world for New Zealand’s beauty. But that’s not its only treasure. There’s also the Kiwi people; down to earth, genuine, friendly, generous, and gracious. They are also hardy, outdoorsy people who think 35-knot winds are a gentle breeze and who adore God’s natural beauty. To truly experience NZ, you must experience its people with their hearts of gold.
Have you had a kindness shown? Pass it on; 'Twas not given for thee alone, Pass it on; Let it travel down the years, Let it wipe another's tears, 'Til in Heaven the deed appears— Pass it on. Rev. Henry Burton
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