Among Fiji’s Great Astrolabe Reef, the world’s 4th largest barrier reef, not only is hospitality legendary, but deeply embedded rituals, culture, & ancient lore are intertwined with daily living-CF
Arriving in Fiji during the May 2000 coup was not on the itinerary of White Dove’s world cruise. We anchored in Suva on Viti Levu, the capitol of Fiji, only long enough to check into the country and provision. After a full day of sailing we reached an isolated string of jeweled islands set in a crystalline sea, encircled by the Great Astrolabe Reef.
It requires good charts, GPS, and vigilance to navigate this coral labyrinth, famous for excellent fishing, diving, and impressive cruising. Or fly in and stay at a comfy resort. Not an option for us adventurous types! For 2 days we basked in solitude at deserted Yaukauvelevu Island, combing its beaches and snorkeling azure waters. We then moved to Ono, a medium-sized island with several scattered villages where extended families live by the motto, “Life is not a race, but a pleasurable pace.”
For a week at Nagarra Bay we were immersed in Fijian culture. First on the agenda was sevusevu-presenting a gift of kava roots to the village chief. *See note at end of article: “Visiting a village”. Next we delivered a letter from a woman we met in Suva to her Uncle Epinere and his family. Never did we imagine the depth of opportunities this simple act would lead to. While we passed out candy, Anna served banana cake and tea. When Jerry was invited indoors by the men for their afternoon kava, I remained with the women and children, conversing as they grated coconut and washed laundry and dishes in large bowls. The next afternoon we shared a meal. Wooden bowls and large shells filled with fried fish with onions, sweet land crab, diced giant clams in coconut milk, bananas, and rice were passed around, each of us plucking out pieces with our fingers. Afterwards stories and photos were partaken of.
Day 3 we presented these new friends with freshly-baked pineapple cake before trekking across one end of the island. Figured we need some exercise after all that eating! Our guide, 11-year-old Sala, led us through dense rain forest where birds serenaded as multi-colored butterflies flittered among ferns, orange and black heliconia, vibrant red hibiscus, and delicate orchids. The slippery path was barely discernible, but the discomforts of sweating, mud, and mosquitoes vanished as we emerged onto a pristine white sand beach. No humans, but we were greeted by 100’s of “walking shells”, home to the cutest hermit crabs. Their antics entertained us as we reclined in the shade, sharing a picnic and the soothing ambience of this magical hideaway.
Snorkeling outside Nagarra Bay was amazing. Encircling 2 tiny islands a vibrant rainbow of corals, peacock-blue starfish, purple sea urchins, and an incredible kaleidoscope of exotic fish dazzled us. Fortunately we didn’t notice the poisonous black and yellow striped sea snake until we were safely aboard the dinghy!
Several afternoons were spent visiting with locals. We dispersed books, magazines, material, toys, school supplies, and more to Epinere’s family and his sister-in-law, Bui plus her 3 children. She lived with extended family while her husband, stationed in the Middle East, served in the United Nations Army alongside many other Fijian men. Such simple gifts gave great pleasure. Although mainly living off the land and sea, the villagers never hesitated to share whatever they had, including invites for a cup of lemon leaf tea or kava. Joe, Epinere’s brother, thanked Jerry for repairing his spear gun and several antiquated spears by presenting him with a gorgeous Triton shell. Schools throughout the remote South Pacific islands lacked essential materials and books so we donated a portion of our dwindling supply to the local teacher.
We bid farewell to these new friends, exchanging addresses, hugs, and smiles. A final image forever engraved in our memories is of a group of islanders standing by a thatched hut, palms swaying, a backdrop of densely foliaged hills, and the bay gently lapping at a primitive stone seawall. All were waving and had wide grins. Their cries of “Moce” followed us across the peaceful lagoon.
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.
Ralph Waldo Emerson
Visiting a village:
-Ask for permission to present a gift of kava to the chief.
-Kava ceremony- Sit crossed-legged facing chief; never turn your back on or sit higher than chief; never walk across the circle of people; when offered kava clap once, say “Bula”, drink quickly, and clap 2-3 times.
-Visitors are treated with exceptional hospitality. Reciprocate with basic groceries, second-hand clothing, candy, small toys, building materials, etc…
-Modest dress-Knee length skirt or dress for women. It’s rude to wear a hat or sunglasses.
-Ask permission to take photos.
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