Shortly after dawn we raised the anchor from Ono and sailed White Dove 10 miles to Kandavu Island. Several villages were scattered along Kavala Bay’s shoreline. Interior mountains were blanketed in shades of green.
Within an hour of arrival Saiasi and his family motored out in their fishing panga. It turned out that they knew cruising friends of ours and had been expecting us. News travels fast in the Great Astrolabe’s small community! We became acquainted over tea and fresh papaya cake.
In the afternoon we presented kava to the main village’s chief, and then rowed to a rocky beach surrounded by mangroves. Traipsing up a steep red-dirt road, we gazed down upon a luxuriant “Garden of Eden” rich with palms entwined by medusa-like vines, and trees laden with breadfruit, bananas, mangoes, and papaya.
The modest dwelling of Saiasi, his wife Liku, and their 3 children: Louisa, Govu, and Daiana was set within a small village in the hills. Sitting on mats, we chatted, eating yams and crackers while chickens strutted and clucked through the tidy home and clothes fluttered on lines outside the window.
Saiasi was in the process of constructing a new house when he was fortunate enough to have building materials. In the cool air of morning he tended the village’s vegetable gardens and kava fields. He, like most Fijians, was proud of and loved his family, island, and nation.
Liku fished with the women along the shore and probed the shallow reefs for delicacies. She was a busy housewife and mother with none of our modern conveniences. It was a toilsome life, but with little stress.
18-year old Louisa gave us a tour of her secondary school where she’s the “smartest girl in the class.” There were several buildings including dorms since there were few schools and teens came from all over. Supplies were sparse and the tiny library’s shelves only half full. Both Louisa and Daiana plan to become teachers.
Neighbors of the family invited us over to tell our story and share a cup of kava. The earthy scent pervaded the air as we passed the coconut shell around, clapping and pretending to enjoy the tepid, dirty-dishwater looking and tasting refreshment that numbed our lips and tongues.
One early evening Saiasi’s family came for dinner on the boat, each of us preparing a traditional dish. Daiana was inquisitive about everything, especially our books and photos. Quiet 15-year old Govu informed us he didn’t care much for school and planned to be a farmer like his dad. His favorite pastime was fishing and driving the family panga. He and his dad were fascinated by our radios, GPS, and depth sounder displaying fish swimming beneath the boat.
Taking a break from social activities, we spent a day snorkeling amid colorful sea fans, stag-horn, brain, mushroom, and other corals. Multitudes of bright tropical fish darted through underwater passageways and swirled around us. Eggshell cowries covered an enchanting area, their black velvety inhabitants partially encasing their smooth exterior shells. A venomous lion fish shied away from us in a rocky outcropping as we carefully swam away from its painful spines.
Another afternoon we discovered a village buried deep in the jungle from which a narrow path led to a waterfall. Two young girls with dark curly hair, enormous eyes, and shy smiles became our unofficial guides. The youngest never spoke, but Mary chattered away in perfect English. which is taught at school. The muddy trail took us up, down, and winding across lush valleys and sweltering jungle, using tree roots as steps and handholds. Within the stillness musk parrots squawked and their crimson chests, green and blue wings flashed through the treetops.
The roar of water enticed us to pick up the pace and soon we entered a clearing. Cascading falls dropped 50+ feet over rock into a deep green pool. Lacy ferns, climbing vines with delicate flowers, fragrant frangipani, pink and purple dendrobium orchids, and trees encircled us. We dropped to the moist earth, abandoned shoes, and waded into the coolness of our private pond. A picnic and brief siesta followed.
Our final afternoon before setting sail back to the reality of Suva, Saiasi and family paid a final visit. We laughed, cried, took photos, and shared gifts including building supplies and books. It was one of our most emotional farewells. Bear hugs, handclasps, and moces were reluctantly exchanged.
As we journeyed across oceans, anticipating what awaited us in countries yet to be explored, we wondered if we would ever recapture anything close to those magical days of friendship and beauty within the Great Astrolabe of Fiji.
A friend may well be reckoned the masterpiece of nature
—Ralph Waldo Emerson
cheryldfitzgerald.com 