Yooperland

We do not want merely to see beauty, though God knows even that is bounty enough. We want something else which can hardly be put into words—to be united with the beauty we see, to pass into it, to receive it into ourselves, to bathe in it, become part of it.—C.S. Lewis, “Weight of Glory”

In the fall of 2020 Jerry & I meandered a few byways of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula—a land of mariners, native tribes, and hearty locals known as Yoopers. Set amidst dense forests lie vast lakes, rushing rivers, and mazes of woodland trails awaiting exploration.

Our C-class RV drove along scenic SR-35, paralleling Lake Michigan’s northwest coast, headed for Delta County, Walleye Capital of the World. Is that really a thing? Nestled within a forest of birch and pine sprinkled with blue asters, our small campground provided views along the lake and Bark River. A serenade of lapping waves accompanied a frolicking otter where the river flowed into this inland sea as we strolled a deserted beach. Autumn foliage bordered the sandy shoreline decorated with driftwood and sea grass. A few miles north lay Esconaba where we ate lunch at Swedish Pantry, a quaint cafe off the main highway. Walls adorned with a wide array of clocks ticked and chimed as we savored homemade soups and sandwiches.

Following Hwy-2 east across the UP we bypassed Manistique this year due to Covid-19 closing many attractions. But 2-years ago, while visiting friends at their cozy lake cabin in the Hiawatha wilderness, we decelerated and embraced a diversity of activities in the area. At Palms Brook State Park we explored the mystique of Kitch-iti-Kipi—The Big Spring, where crystal waters gushed from limestone fissures 40-ft below the surface of a small cove of Indian Lake. A self-propelling observation raft allowed visitors to study ancient tree trunks, calcified branches, massive trout, and sandy shapes swirling near the bottom like dancing apparitions.

Two girlfriends & I paddled some short portions of 51-mile Indian River Canoe & Kayak Trail in Hiawatha National Forest during our stay. Loons, osprey, sand-hill cranes, wood turtles, otter, and other wildlife thrive among this varied landscape of hardwoods, conifers, marshland, & rolling hills. In nearby Gulliver our group toured Seul Choix Pointe Lighthouse, a functioning lighthouse and museum, dating back to 1895. Named by French sailors seeking refuge during a terrifying storm, it translates as Only Chance. After all that outdoor adventure, we’d worked up a thirst so headed to Mackinaw Trail Winery & Brewery in Manistique’s harbor for some tastings. Although small & casual, you can’t beat the ambience while sipping a glass, over-looking the boats.

Continuing east on Hwy-2 my husband & I entered the Great Waters of eastern UP where Lakes Michigan, Superior, & Heron connect. Within the tranquil beauty of lush forests, waterfalls, & burbling streams the air is fresh beneath cerulean skies & prismatic sunsets. Evening’s grand finale radiates the glorious majesty of the infinite heavens, & if you’re fortunate, the aurora borealis…which we have yet to see.

Our jeep traveled a twisty byway from our campground near Brimley following Lakeshore Drive, delving deep into the north woods. There are several side-road jaunts to secluded lakes, beaches, & scenic overlooks. Iroquois Light Station guides ships through a channel leading to St. Mary’s River & the Soo Locks, the only passage between Lake Superior and other Great Lakes.

Heading west on Route 123 delivered us to Tahquamenon Falls State Park near Newbury, Moose Capital of the World. Lots of “Capitals” in the UP! Strolling wide paths and boardwalks through tunnels of birch, maple, oak, & cedar led to areas of the Upper & Lower Falls. Tannin dyed waterfalls shades of browns and golds as they cascaded into the churning Tahquamenon River. For those with disabilities there’s a Track Chair Program, providing free off-road electric wheelchairs able to handle trails, sand, snow, & up to 8-inches of water! 1st come, 1st serve.

On a previous journey to the area we drove north through Paradise to narrow Whitefish point Road, winding its way to the oldest active lighthouse (1849) on Lake Superior. Among several historic structures was a U.S. Coast Guard life-saving boathouse. Jerry, an old Coastie, loved that (We also visited an operational Coast Guard station on that trip). We spent hours touring the Great lakes Shipwreck Museum containing an extensive collection of artifacts, artwork, & maritime history form several shipwrecks, including the Edmund Fitzgerald (no relation). There’s also a great bird observatory, most spectacular during spring & fall migrations. But year round you can view Boreal owls, woodpeckers, & more.

In Sault Ste. Marie, originally named Bow-wa-ting-Falling Waters, by the Chippewa Indians, the Soo Locks were built to form a passage around the rapid’s 21-ft drop, connecting Lake Superior to lake Huron which joins the other Great Lakes. Today there are 3 operational U.S. locks & 1 Canadian. Due to Covid-19 restrictions the tall observation platforms, tower, & visitor center were closed. But strolling the grounds was still fascinating as huge freighters traversed the locks like slow-moving city blocks. A delightful view was enjoyed in the 2nd story of Lockview Restaurant as we ate scrumptious seafood & scrutinized an assortment of nautical paraphernalia & old photos. Playing tourist in downtown, we walked along historic Water St, studying informational plaques that described life for the early 1800 settlers and their businesses. Several restored homes were planted within season’s end floral gardens, trees draped in fall splendor.

Being mostly fair-weather RVers, we headed south to Indiana, across the Mackinac Bridge to Troll Land—Lower Michigan, stopping for an overnight stay at Crittenden Park. Off the beaten path & at end of season made for a peaceful paddle around the lake followed by an enchanting sunset. A perfect end to the day & another RV quest.