A 17-day voyage from Darwin, Australia to the southern atoll of Cocos Keeling, an Australian territory, proved uneventful except for several Indonesian vessels passing way too close. Our 1st thought—pirates! But these unusual boats that curved upward at bow and stern, with gaff-rigged blue and white-striped sails, left us alone. We learned these fishermen came near and circled us so any evil spirits would jump off their boats and onto ours!
Our first sight of this group of 26 palm-covered islands was extraordinary with golden beaches and coral reefs encircling clear blue-hued lagoons. We joined 9 sailboats anchored at uninhabited Direction Island, greeted by cruising friends off Appledore and a 4-ft blacktip reef shark who circled us for 30-minutes. Customs didn’t arrive until Day-2, and on a jet ski! One of our easiest check-ins. And no fee—a common theme for this charming place. A long, wet dinghy ride bounced us over to Home Island. From there a free ferry chugged to West Island, the 3rd smallest capital in the world (pop:120). A free bus drove to a tiny settlement where we did laundry and provisioned.
Direction Island: We discovered a unique cruiser’s shelter overflowing with sailing memorabilia from around the world. We recognized names of several friends including a sign from the Pardey’s Talisin, and added our club burgee to the mix. Snorkeling “The Rip” was a rush with a current sweeping us through a narrow coral passage. We encountered 3 blacktip reef sharks who ignored us, several bluish-gray spotted unicorn fish, and at least 2 humphead Maori wrasse. One balmy evening everyone gathered for a potluck on the beach, lit by lanterns and a bonfire as the sun dipped below the horizon.
Home Island housed about 500 Cocos Malay who are mostly Sunni Islamic. Shy but polite, their simple, modern houses and villages are immaculate. In Bantam, Pula Cocos, a free natural history museum displayed early history and local culture, Aussie naval history, local flora and fauna, and a few restored ancient wooden boats. We hiked the trail to Oceania House. This Clunies-Ross plantation home is over a century old and been abandoned since the 1980s. The front door was unlocked, so took a self-tour. A few pieces of furniture, carpets, windows, and hanging framed pictures remain intact. Strolling its many rooms, we sought a ghostly vision or voice to share their secret tales of this forgotten place. Outside we sauntered down pathways through overgrown gardens where massive trees shaded a tangle of colorful plants and flowering vines. Lots of potential here…if you don’t mind living on a remote island. Note: We sailed here in 2000. I just discovered during recent research that this home and gardens have been rejuvenated and is now a quaint B&B.
Our final full day was spent in preparation for the Indian Ocean Crossing. I baked bread, carrot raisin muffins, and chocolate chip cookies, staples of any long sail(!), plus several meals to freeze. Jerry scoured the hull bottom and secured everything on deck.
Day 4 we strolled the serene shoreline before lunching with friends. Then set sail with 3 other yachts under reefed main and staysail. A stiff wind of 25 knots and high bumpy seas from the aft quarter made for less than ideal conditions. But we’re on our way west toward more adventures.
The Timor Sea Soft warm cocoon of night Pumpkin orb casts dim light Full moon rises overhead Star's twinkling petals shed Tall rolling swells astern Push us onward as the tern searches, dives, a shrill call Shatters quiet far from all Beneath sea an eerie glow Nature's strangest creatures flow Travelers passing swiftly on Toward Indian Ocean's dawn
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