South Indian Seas Through the churning wash machine White Dove plows, decks salty clean Warning, distant rumbling thunder Next wave almost rolls us under Jagged peaks of white-capped swells Tumble toward us, dip our rails Waterfalls down open hatch Scramble quick, secure its latch Billows boom, explode 'gainst hull followed by a peaceful lull Swishing, splashing, muted sounds Tensely awaiting next round Torrents rush, again expand Where's that haven we call land Racing down the trough's light foam Hisses, gurgles, creaks, and groans Sailboat protests ocean's powers We strive toward shore, counting hours
Howling winds and swells up to 12-feet propelled White Dove on a bouncy 2,000 mile passage to Rodrigues Island, a territory of Mauritius. Night watch felt like Space Mountain as we dipped and rose, rounding into wide sweeping curves. The highlight of that weary 14 day crossing was witnessing the elusive green flash as blazing sun dived into deep blue sea.
Arrival and check-in at Port Mathurin, capital of Rodrigues, was easy with friendly officials and no charges. Small shops lined alley-like streets, carrying groceries, clothing, appliances, and intricately weaved baskets. Interspersed among these were dim, noisy bars and bright limestone government buildings. Dodging motorists proved a challenge as we strolled the town of this less-traveled tiny, 41-mile island. But handsome locals, varying in shades from black to light-brown, engaged us with curious smiles, speaking a mixture of Creole, French, and broken English.
With cruising friends off Appledore and Alcyone we toured Rodrigues with two local guides. Bumpy roads twisted, leading to unexpected encounters—men herding tribes of goats; Brahma bulls and cows barricading our path; clucking chickens, squealing pigs, hungry dogs; and colorfully dressed women of all ages sauntering along with full baskets balanced perfectly on heads.
The harsh hilly terrain was splotched with clumps of casuarina (Aus pine), short lataniers (palms), vacoas (pandanus), flowering aloe, and vielle-fille, also called old maid, their pink blossoms used for a special drink. Corn sprouted on terraced hilltops along with tomatoes, onions, and a variety of chilies. A slippery tramp up Mt. Limon, highest point on the island, revealed a landscape dotted with geometric homes trimmed in bright hues. All were built of concrete or limestone blocks to withstand cyclones that blasted across every 2-3 years. I searched for the elusive, rare yellow Rodrigues fody and warbler, but only the occasional burry shrill call of a tern broke the quiet. Bordering the island’s perimeter were mangroves, beaches, and rocky outcroppings. Most captivating were the extensive reefs and lagoons wrapping azure waters around Rodrigues in a warm embrace. There’s net-fishing from local pirogues, snorkeling or diving to explore thriving coral, exotic fish, and octopus, or simply floating on your back, daydreaming as unusual cloud formations drift by. Outside the reef was a big-game-fish paradise sporting dogtooth tuna, grouper, wahoo, marlin, and more.
In-between a picnic and afternoon tea we encountered two intriguing sites:
Caverne Patate—Also known as Potato Cave, this 60-meter deep natural cavern has no mounted lights, so we brought strong flashlights. Guides led us on an hour stroll among limestone and volcanic rock formations with enchanting stalactites and stalagmites sometimes joining together.
Plaine Corail—We were dwarfed among the towering white walls as we explored this limestone quarry. Blocks of all sizes are cut here to supply material for various building projects.
Our final evening the three sailboats rafted together and were joined by a Dutch-American newcomer who’d just arrived from Papua New Guinea after 53 days at sea. The eccentric storyteller provided entertainment during the progressive dinner: appetizers on Alcyone; main course of fish and potatoes on Appledore; and fudgy brownies on WD. It was nothing fancy like the resort restaurants who offer favorites like:
Fish rougaille- a Creole stew with tomatoes, onion, garlic, and thyme, brimming with fresh fish and shellfish.
Octopus salad- with tomatoes, yellow and green peppers, shallots, and lemon juice.
Salade marlin
Gratin de fruit de mer
Bekin baguette- A local favorite during La Fete du Poisson, the Fish Festival held in March. Flakes of bekin fish are combined with tomato, red onion, and lemon juice, then stuffed into a freshly-baked baguette.
However, the camaraderie was so much more delightful and fulfilling than any gourmet dish. We bid an early goodnight since the local meteorologist had predicted a favorable weather window. First light found us raising the anchor and then the sails as we ventured on to Mauritius and more adventures.
If I take the wings of the morning & dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea, even there shall thy hand lead me, & thy right hand shall hold me.—Ralph Waldo Emerson
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