Indian Ocean Crossing—Reunion

Last stop of our Indian Ocean westward crossing found us side-tied 3 boats deep to a battered wharf in the noisy, smelly working harbor of Port Galet. We clambered over each yacht before facing the challenging climb up make-shift ladders of rope and chain. The good news? We got to meet our neighbors plus had access to fresh water!

French-owned Reunion is a sub-tropical volcanic rock island country. Our visit was part pleasure/part work. The first day was spent beneath a sweltering sun trudging to the small town of La Possession where we caught a bus into St. Denis, the capital. Located on the northwest coast, it held a mixture of historic and modern architecture, museums, gardens, and various ethnic restaurants and shops. Its varied races and cultures co-existed in harmony, demonstrated by the tolerance of a Catholic cathedral, Muslim mosque, Tamil temple, and Protestant church all within blocks of each other. Our focus lay in obtaining tourist maps and brochures, fresh produce, and of course, a French staple—baguettes. We lunched at Le Roulette trucks amongst a flowering park of centenary trees. Restful seascape and majestic vistas of mountain peaks made me reflect on native writer/artist, Leon Dierx, christened “the prince of poets” by French peers in 1898. He attended college in France and eventually made it his home.

The following two days Jerry and I slogged our way through chores and projects, preparing White Dove for the 10-day voyage to South Africa. Nearing that continent can prove treacherous due to strong-flowing currents, unpredictable winds, and fast-changing weather—as you’ll discover in my next episode! Our main projects: Spreading out the lapper, our largest sail, and repairing its seams with sail tape before wrestling it inside the boat and through our sewing machine; Rerouting the luff lines; engine maintenance; securing all gear inside and out; organizing and preparation of meals. All fun while sweating profusely!

Then it was time to play. Arising at 4am, we caught the 6:15 bus from Le Port. Since most passengers were French, the driver/tour guide spoke French. But that didn’t deter from interpreting the captivating scenery as we passed rugged coastline, turned inland through farmland, then winded past charming European-style villages as we ascended into the Cirques—three natural amphitheaters formed as the inside of Piton des Nieges collapsed, then further through erosion. It was a drive to remember. The one-lane mountain road spun us through S-curves and horseshoe bends. Dark tunnels had only inches to spare on both sides. The only thing between us and sheer drop-offs were short curbs. Many prayers were invoked on that ride. But exhilarating panoramas of deep canyons cut by rivers, tumbling waterfalls, green valleys, and rugged mountains with Yosemite-like granite cliffs helped cloak the dangers.

Arriving in Cilaos, the mountain air was sweet and refreshing. Besides therapeutic thermal waters and baths, this quaint village offered wineries, cafes, hiking and mountain biking through dusky conifer forests, and lovely Roche-Merveilleuse Botanical Path. We picnicked beneath scented mimosas and tamarinds des hauts, a tree endemic to Reunion. Feasting on local bread, cheese, fruit, and wine, a freshly-baked strawberry tart was the grand finale.

Another day we shared a rental car with cruising friends from Appledore and Horizon to explore the south-eastern portion of the country. We crossed high plains with plantations of sugarcane, vanilla, and coffee; farms growing garlic, chou chou-a tuber vegetable, saffron crocus which produces the costly spice, nutritious goyavier berries, and rosat geraniums whose leaves are distilled to make essential oils. Our main focus was hiking Piton de la Fournaise, meaning furnace peak. Le Volcan is one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Unfortunately, by the time we reached road’s end, where stony trails began, clouds and cold rain enshrouded us. We descended back to Volcano House where we partially satisfied our curiosity of the alien landscape in their theater watching videos of awesome volcanic eruptions, plus enjoying displays of photos and paintings throughout the museum.

Along the south and eastern coastline tradewinds carry rain to magnificent colonial estates hidden within orchards, winding paths through cryptomeria forests, and gardens of white arum lilies. Lava flows occasionally interrupt this lush landscape. We climbed around a large, 2-year-old flow at Pointe-de-la-Table. This river of porous rocks in shades of red, golden brown, steel gray, and black snaked into the ocean. Only the roaring sea and cries of gulls broke the otherworldly silence.

Wish we’d had time for more activities on this island gem. There’s adventures for all fitness levels:

Canyoning- For more advanced daredevils, canyons beckoned for climbing, rappelling, kayaking, rafting, and waterfall jumping!

A hiker’s paradise for everyone from ramblers to high-peak mountain climbers, with countless footpaths and two major trails through Grande Randonnee.

Horse-trekking- A unique mode of exploration on the back of a gentle Merens horse, imported from the Pyrenees in France.

There’s also catapulting down mountain bike trails, soaring from a para-glider, and all types of ocean sports.

For now I say adieu, and leave you with portions of “October Evening” a poem by Reunion native, Leon Dierx.

A tremor slides from the hill-slopes down to the plains...
A tremor of night passes on to the country lanes...
Under a chilly gust the songs grow soft,
Afar the sound of singing and laughter dies.
In the dense mist rising up as a breath uncurls...
Its farewell sighs where the dark wood shakes in dread—
It shakes in dread and the dry leaf eddying whirls,
Whirls and falls on paths that no feet tread.