From Richards Bay, South Africa, a small group of cruising friends meandered past acres of gum tree farms and through modern and primitive Zulu villages. Strolling dusty paths, natives balanced bundles on heads babies strapped to backs.
Grinning native boys danced as we entered Hluhluwe-Umfolozi game-park, gateway to an ancient world.
Winding through gentle hills where Cape buffalo grazed, we spotted a black rhino wallowing in mud and baboons lazing among star chestnut trees. At the summit of a forest sprawled Hilltop Camp. Our circular rondavul came furnished with the bare necessities plus two geckos on bug patrol. Outside, Jerry and I strolled a footpath within the compound. Fluttering butterflies gathered nectar among flowery foliage; birds chirped and twittered; velvet monkeys romped; and wandering zebras kept the grass mowed.
Our guide, Musie, led a 3-hour night drive in an open-sided Range Rover. The air was still as we searched openings in dense brush with two handheld spotlights. A large porcupine waddled across the 1-lane dirt road. A spotted genet with long swishing tail slunk across a thick branch. An owl hooted and in the distance a bushbaby wailed. Rounding a sharp bend, Musie jammed on the brakes. A huge bull elephant with pointed tusks stood in the road, staring directly at us. Our guide held a finger to his lips. I glanced at Jerry beside me—and screamed! An insect the size of my hand sat perched on his shoulder. The elephant’s ears flared a warning. The alien pest was batted off, but I brushed my own shoulders several times in case there were others. Everyone held their breath as Musie slowly backed up the vehicle. Hathi’s ears drooped and he moved into the bush, more concerned with munching than trampling us. Less eventful encounters included small groups of Roan antelope and elands. The finale was observing a lion and two coy lionesses. He tried attracting the first female, but she just swished her tail and ignored him. The other swatted his cheek. Not in the mood. Rejected, the king of the jungle plopped down in the high grass settling for a nap.
The next morning’s 6a.m. drive with new guide, Welcome, was even more amazing. Wide rivers snaked through an open savanna dotted with umbrella thorn trees and baobab, which I call upside down trees because their massive trunks are topped with root-like branches. Roaming wildlife included herds of elegant impala, cute steenbok with tiny horns and large ears, majestic kudu with long twisty horns, zebras, and African buffalo. A pair of warthogs trotted across low grass and flopped into a muddy waterhole a short distance from a few rhinos. The wooded savanna presented a shy giraffe, chattering monkeys, and the flash of a leopard sprinting through underbrush.
The early morning drive whetted our appetite for more close encounters. Jerry and I drove to a hide, a shelter with seats and a narrow horizontal opening to observe animals without them seeing us. Hundreds of circular grass bird nests hung from low limbs over a wide pond. Bright yellow weavers with black markings busily wove new ones. Kingfishers supervised, swallows swooped, frogs croaked, and small red duiker quenched their thirst in the momentary safety, ready to leap away at the slightest threat.
Our 5:30a.m. bushwalk in the cool African morning made me feel more vulnerable. We really were on safari! Our rifle-toting guide led the group single-file through the bushveld. We traipsed barely discernible paths with a mix of paw/hoof prints and scat, tall grass past our knees, where silvery buffalo thorn, fragrant bushwillow, and tall jackalberry grew. Vultures circled in the distance. An eagle soared. Giraffe peered warily and a group of gazelles with long curvy horns sprinted away. We quietly stepped past a grazing herd of wildebeest, not wanting to disturb these powerful animals. Nonchalant zebra peeked from the bushes as we tramped the trail back to civilization.
This National Geographic adventure was way too short, but sparked the desire for much more exploration of this diverse and delightful country. We were thankful to be given glimpses of the Big 5: Lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and African buffalo—and so much more—A look at how God intended the natural world to be, its creatures roaming free, nature in harmony.
All I have seen teaches me to trust the Creator for all I have not seen.
—Ralph Waldo Emerson
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