Rolling down the highway once more, heading west with good friends, JD & Kim. This is their 1st long adventure in their 26-ft Class A. Although we’ve been planning this trip for almost a year, it almost didn’t happen. Kim’s mom passed away 6 days before departure. And a late June tornado caused extensive damage to our C-Class. But we were able to leave all the unfinished business and worries behind and head out on schedule. Thanks be to God who blessed us with much needed strength and perseverance.
Our 1st night in IL we used Harvest Host and planted ourselves at a peaceful farm with only birds to serenade us. The following day found us camping in IA at Palisades-Kepler State Park where we enjoyed a leisurely hike to a river backdropped by tall limestone cliffs. Of course, our agenda required us to investigate Buchanan Winery set amidst rolling hills, farms, and vineyards. The eye catcher—a fabulous late 1800s Victorian house beside the winery. The bonus—tasty wines served by the friendly owner and a picnic on their patio. The day ended with grilled turkey burgers and squash from the farm, followed by a campfire, smores, and brownies. Don’t worry, we’re going to be getting plenty of exercise in the next few days.
Taking I-90, we arrived in the Badlands of South Dakota on the 4th day. We boon-docked (free camping without hookups in the wild) on a high plateau overlooking rugged canyons and tall grass plains. In the quiet before dusk, only the lowing of cattle and the wind moaning through the gulches could be heard. My birthday was celebrated atop this mystical land with Kim’s homemade chili with all the fixings, cornbread, and carrot cake as a full moon rose casting eerie shadows on canyon walls.
Only a few miles north lay the small town of Wall with the world’s largest drug store. Wall Drugs takes up an entire block and is a little touristy, but its uniqueness makes it totally worth a visit. There’s everything from fresh donuts to western art, postcards to sculpture, boots to books, soda shop, large dining room, and yes—a pharmacy.
We had an extraordinary day exploring Badlands National Park, driving the Loop Road where buffalo roamed and prairie dogs popped out of holes. We also hiked its alien landscape along the Windows, Door, and other trails before cooling down inside the Ben Reifel Visitor Center. Its museum-like exhibits taught us about hearty native Lakota and early homesteaders, the land’s surreal geography, and evolution of extinct animals through the study of fossils within this ancient seabed. I even got to watch an anthropologist meticulously scrape away on a fossilized cat skull.
Using Hwy 44 through Buffalo Gap National Grasslands to Hwy 16, we entered Black Hills National Forest. I checked off one of my bucket list items at our next stop, awe-inspiring Mount Rushmore.
Its creation by sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, boggles the imagination—both its size and construction. From 1927-12941 Borglum first made large mock-ups of each face before miners blasted, drilled, and chiseled away 800 tons of granite. This memorial is definitely a monumental tribute to America’s history and four of its greatest presidents: Washington, Jefferson, Teddy Roosevelt, and Lincoln. The excellent visitor’s center provided videos, photos, and sculptures to show the intricacies of this iconic endeavor.
We continued motoring along another portion of Hwy 16 to the Crazy Horse Memorial. Their vast visitor center complex wore us out, but was amazing. It contained 3 wings of a North American Indian museum, delightful artwork, and huge, tempting gift shop. Above its center loomed the still-in-progress mountain carving of Crazy Horse, a memorial to the Lakota people.
We capped off the daylight hours with a jaunt in our jeep along the scenic, challenging Route 87-Needles Hwy. Around every bend were spires, finger-like formations, and the bizarre Eye of the Needle . The narrow, twisty road squeezed through two narrow tunnels blasted in the rocks. Quite the adventure before hot showers, leftovers, and a restful night at nearby Custer State Park.
Ever since Close Encounters of the Third Kind came out, Devil’s Tower has been on my list of “Places to visit.” We navigated Hwy 24 and the Hwy 14 loop on a short scenic detour on our way through WY.
One word came to mind-surreal-as everyone hiked the 1.3 mile Tower Trail that encircled nature’s fantastic sculpture. Formed from molten magma that seeped into sedimentary rock, it cooled, contracted, and fractured into columns. Erosion eventually exposed this massive tower. And yes, I did keep a lookout for friendly aliens as I softly hummed those 5 unforgettable notes—G-A-F-octave lower F-C…
Parting company with Kim and JD was difficult, but they needed to return home to take care of business and work. It’s always fun sharing the joy and excitement of new places with friends. We look forward to more adventures in the coming years. Jerry and I continued our journey into MT and spent a night at one of the loveliest campgrounds I’ve ever been to.
Jim & Mary’s RV Park in Missoula far exceeded my expectations. I felt at home strolling by multiple themed garden areas filled with colorful flowers, shrubs, and whimsical sculptures. Friendly staff, superb restrooms and showers, and laundry room with attached game/puzzle room with library clinched it for me. I’ll be back!
Day 9 Jerry and I arrived at the furthermost point of our western excursion via Hwy 93, then Hwy 35 alongside Flathead Lake. We entered Glacier National Park in northern MT, specifically the West Glacier entrance and landed at Fish Creek Campground beside Lake McDonald. The stunning landscape captivated us, our spirits only slightly dampened by on/off again rain and gray skies.
A minor glitch popped up on our second day—the kayaks didn’t pass inspection by the dog sniffer. It wasn’t drugs they were searching for, but zebra and quagga mussels. We’d never encountered anything like this in the mid-west where you just plop your boat into whatever body of water you like. Not to be disheartened, I spent at least 2 hours scrubbing every inch, inside and out, until they looked like new.
The following day perseverance paid off and we enjoyed lovely weather and an easy paddle beneath a wide Montana sky—until we turned around. After a peaceful picnic on a tiny deserted beach, encompassed by majestic mountains, we lazily slid the kayaks back into crystal clear water. Rounding a rocky point, wind blasted our faces and choppy seas fought against us with each stroke. It took twice as long to return and my arms felt like limp noodles. But it was a memorable day.
I forgot to mention yesterday’s other trial. Since kayaking failed, we took a picturesque tramp from the campground, following the lakeshore to Rocky Point. Our weather app forecast plenty of time before the next rain system moved in. Surprise! They were wrong. We’d just turned back after climbing boulders and admiring the brilliant view when we got hit. I’m not talking sprinkles, but a heavy downpour that lasted the entire 30 min trot back to camp. Unfortunately, our rain jackets were in the RV. Don’t ask me why. The good news—I got my hair thoroughly washed.
There was one final challenge which turned into a blessing. Fish Creek Camp closed, so we had to find another campground. Labor Day weekend had just ended and we were able to obtain a site at Apgar, near the village. The great news was that a paved bicycle trail began here. After setting up camp, we pedaled its gentle slopes, winding through fern-drenched, cedar/hemlock forests to the Flathead River. Then back to Apgar Village where Jerry and I were forced to indulge in scoops of huckleberry and chocolate ice cream. It’s a good thing we only spent 4 days here, or I might still have to be dieting.
A final note: I’d looked forward to the drive on the popular Going-to-the-Sun Road, but we encountered one final roadblock. The entire road up to the lodge was under major reconstruction with all scenic turnouts closed. On our first day we had observed a continuous, slow-moving train of muddy cars jouncing and snaking back down the mountain in late afternoon, and had made the decision—Not worth it. Maybe on our next western adventure.
Our escapades will continue south into the Grand Tetons and some of Utah’s wonderful national parks in my next blog—after the holiday season. Joy & Serenity to the world. See you in 2024.
Climb the mountains & get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.
John Muir
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