Category: Sailing

Highlights from a few of our favorite anchorages included:

• #7 Nuapapu Island—At Mariner’s Cave we snorkeled down 4-feet, then through a large opening and about 12-feet back to the cave. An eerie, almost mystical sight transfixed us. Sunlight filtered through the water’s entrance as waves of fog rolled in and out with each swell. A jungle hike included 4-5-foot webs laced between trees, but thankfully non-venomous spiders, plus fruit bats at dusk. Our destination was the Lighthouse Cafe. We purchased scrumptious bread and sipped a drink, captivated by this one of a kind atmosphere.
• #8 Kapa Island—We dinghied into Swallow’s Cave with boating friends. After swimming to a rocky ledge we nervously skirted 6-foot pools where poisonous black and white ringed snakes lurked before entering a mysterious domed cavern. shafts of light illuminated stalactites and walls bathed in shades of blue, green, and gold. Translucent aquamarine water, almost 50-feet deep, swirled with clouds of small, rainbow-hued fish. Ending this perfect day led us to another feast at Barnacle beach where Tongan dancing and music serenaded our group beneath a diamond-studded black velvet sky.
• #13 Hunga Island—Once through a nerve-wracking shallow, narrow pass, we anchored in a peaceful lagoon. The only sounds were wind clanking the rigging, rustling palms, birdsong, and nightly crickets. One evening we crammed aboard a friend’s boat to celebrate five birthdays with a potluck and sing-a-long. Another night Club Hunga served a special dinner for about 50 people. It included fish, chicken, Tongan spinach, sweet potato, breadfruit, pineapple, and watermelon, followed by a jam session with cruiser’s and locals. During our week in Hunga we trekked to a primitive village. Pigs, dogs, chickens, and children scampered along dirt lanes interspersed with woven mat houses sprouting thatched or corrugated tin roofs. At the primary school we met Eva, one of two teachers, and gave a geography lesson plus some greatly needed school supplies. The well-mannered children rewarded us with singing and shell necklaces.
• #16 Vaka’eitu Island—We visited this favorite snorkeling site three times. Extraordinary Coral Gardens was located just outside the reef. A continuous coral wall zigzagged through long canyons and pits displaying sea fans, mushrooms, carnations, tables, brains, and other varieties of hard and soft corals. The numerous clown, cuttle, lion, parrot, and other fish paled in comparison to the shades of purple, pink, blue, green, and yellow garden “flowers”.

Vava’u’s outdoor playground also delighted us with humpback whales and dolphins spinning and splashing as we cruised among this protected ocean paradise. The 12-hour passage to Haapai, the central Tongan group, was less favorable. We battled 30+ knot winds close-hauled, with 2-3 meter swells pounding our beam. Foul weather fluctuated with calm during the last week of October. We joined friends for picnics and long walks on the white sandy shore. Anxious for a favorable weather window, we prepared for the New Zealand crossing by washing laundry in buckets, baking bread, moving needed stores to easy, accessible locations, and filling out required entry forms. In-between chores and potlucks we strategized routes and weather with several buddy boaters.

Farewell “Friendly Islands” as Captain Cook aptly named this island country. I hope we have absorbed your philosophy of mo’ui fiemalie and nonga for a contented and peaceful life, satisfied with simple pleasures.

Now may the Lord of peace himself give you peace at all times & in every way. The Lord be with all of you. Thessalonians 3:16

A labyrinth of waterways wound past islands clothed in limestone cliffs, canopy of jungles, and occasional beach. WHITE DOVE dropped anchored in Niafu, the Port of Refuge, on the main island of Vava’u. Thirty-four islands made up this northern group in Tonga nudging the International Date Line. Jerry and I lost track of time amid our adventures of snorkeling, feasts, and reunions with several cruising friends met from Mexico through Polynesia. This sailing mecca presented a diversity of anchorages only an hour or so apart. Several charter companies offered day sails or extended vacations whether bare-boating or with a captain/crew.

Fragrant vanilla pods permeated Niafu as we stocked up at their excellent outdoor produce market, savoring our first juicy watermelon in six months. Local craft booths exhibited an extensive array of woven baskets in all shapes and sizes made from tan, brown, black , and white pandanus leaves. I packed quite a few on our boat, using to store produce and shells. Also popular was tapa cloth made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree. After beaten paper-thin, it was hand-painted with natural dyes.

On Friday evenings many yachties converged at Anna’s Cafe for happy hour, cheering on boat racers in the harbor and enjoying a local band. Sundays found us attending the Free Wesleyan Church. Tongan men and women dressed in the traditional ta’ovala, a skirt of finely woven pandanus matting. Half of the congregation made up the harmonic choir, captivating us with dark warm eyes, shy smiles, and heart-felt singing. The long sermon spoken in their language was a small price to pay for experiencing their faith and joy.

One afternoon after service a group of us were invited to a feast at Isaiah’s home in Pangai Village. We sat on mats, passing large clam shells brimming with roasted pig, fish, corned beef, oysters, octopus, breadfruit, taro, sweet potatoes, and papaya, all baked with coconut cream sauce in their umu- an underground oven. Plates were large palm leaves, cutlery our fingers!

Niafu was interesting, but the majority of time was spent exploring various numbered anchorages. See Part 2 for a list of these and more adventures.

As you go through this day, look for tiny treasures strategically placed along the way. I lovingly go before you and plant little pleasures to brighten your day.

From “Peace In His Presence” by Sarah Young

“Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter”

Izaak Walton

I kept a diligent watch for uncharted coral heads as Jerry steered White Dove through Te Ava Nui Pass into Bora Bora’s variegated blue lagoon. Romance, Escapade, and Holding Pattern sat at anchor near the yacht club, awaiting our arrival. Checking in on the Seafarer’s ham radio net while crossing the Pacific from Mexico to French Polynesia, we had become acquainted with several sailors all following the Coconut Milk Run. Each landfall brought reunions with these surrogate families, sharing adventures, assistance, potlucks, and holidays , so far from home.

Enchanted starlit evenings with the rhythm of drums and melodious swell of Polynesian voices drew us ashore for singing and dancing competitions. Fete was in full swing. Children from five to eighteen, wearing colorful hip-hugging skirts and flowered belts with matching tops, performed first. Leis and heads adorned with flowery wreaths swayed to the music, hands telling the history of these ancient seafarers. Another night tall, tattooed men, bare chests glistening, stomped to the beat of several toeres-hollow wooden drums. It was the Tamure, a fast, erotic dance that quickened pulses. Females wore elaborate headdresses woven with feathers, shells, and flowers above their waist-length dark hair. Brown eyes and full lips smiled warmly as they danced to more complex choreography—hips rotating, long grass skirts swishing, hands weaving intricate patterns.

A group of us cruisers delighted in a day of cycling the 32-kilometer level road encircling the main island. Breath-taking views of the twin basalt peaks soared above. Inland slopes and valleys blossomed with hibiscus and bougainvillea. Among our stops were:

—American Naval guns left from the WWII base fascinated the guys.

—Intriguing maraes built from coral slabs and basalt rocks. These open-air grounds were mainly reserved for religious ceremonies, but also marriages, war councils, peace treaties, and more. Occasionally human sacrifices of captured enemies were performed on the ahu-the temple platform. Thankfully these practices ended with the introduction of Christianity in the early 1800s.

—Cheeseburgers at infamous Bloody Mary’s accompanied by American 60’s music. Dirt floors, a thatched roof, sink and urinal waterfalls, and tall carved tiki heads enhanced the ambiance.

Several days were spent anchored in 10-feet of swimming-pool water at secluded Motu Pitiaau. This narrow reef islet sits atop the atoll surrounding Bora Bora. Churning ocean lies on one side, the peaceful lagoon on the other. While strolling the beach we met a welcoming family living among the coconut palms in weathered huts. Hitiona invited us to sit, introducing his wife, Haumata, plus several children and grandkids. Communication was a mix of broken English, smattering of French and Tahitian, and lots of charades! In our many visits together, we exchanged small toys, candy, and school supplies for coconuts and fishing lessons on the reef using a harpoon, plus observing their free dives for octopus, shellfish, and crabs. Life is primitive, simple, and isolated, although some young adults move away to attend college.

A captivating day of snorkeling the Aquarium, located at one end of the motu, will not be forgotten. A slow-moving current wound us through tight valleys, passing coral forests of many shapes and colors, dazzling fish who swam up to our faces, and fat purple starfish with orange spikes. The experience transcended my imagination. I wanted to laugh out loud—not a smart idea underwater! While embraced in the ocean’s warm womb, I reflected on all the people God has gifted into our lives. Wonderful friends from home we are missing; cruising friends that share this unique period of time with us; new friends from diverse cultures who teach us so much about the world and ourselves. The places we have visited are remarkable, but the charming, generous people we have met are truly what the journey is all about.

The Cruiser’s Life

Cruising, where we meet new friends
Potluck parties are the trend
Awaiting letters old friends send
Oh, it’s the cruiser’s life for me

Snorkel, cycling, watch the whales
Music jams and hike the trails
Up the anchor, raise the sails
Oh, it’s the cruiser’s life for me





 




 

Winds whisper legends through narrow valleys;
Shadows glide along jungle-clad hillsides;
Shades of green climb steep slopes to volcanic spires.
The "Yosemite" of Polynesia, where harmonious voices
drift across the bay, lulling one to sleep.

Cook’s Bay, Moorea—The 10-mile passage across Sea of the Moon delivered us from the chaos of Papeete in Tahiti to this blue-green lagoon where only nine sailboats lay at anchor. Snorkeling the reef by the pass refreshed us after a morning of chores and projects. Neon angel and parrot fish zigzagged among the purple and pink coral garden. We floated within its silence.

Next day a “supposedly” easy hike morphed into a 4-1/2 hour expedition. We clambered up and slid along a twisting, muddy mountain trail, dwarfed by humongous ferns and moss-coated tree trunks, using banyan roots for steps and handrails. Red dabs of paint sporadically marked the path, more imagination than reality. The great adventure terminated in the tiny town of Vaiare where coconut ice cream cooled our sweat-soaked bodies. We were blessed to catch a ride back to the boat on Le Truck, the local bus.

One day we rowed ashore bringing fold-up mountain bikes. Fragrant frangipani, white tiare bushes, and multi-colored hibiscus lined the paved road along the island’s perimeter. Guava, mango, and coconut palms grew amidst the splendor around every curve. The cerulean sky provided a backdrop for craggy peaks and tranquil bays. Wandering the grounds of a resort, we discovered a “Yellow Submarine”! It was used for tourist excursions around the reefs for those adverse to getting wet. Enjoyed a dolphin show, but empathized with these playful mammals held captive instead of swimming free in their beautiful ocean, just yards away.

Belvedere Lookout, on one of our final days, presented an enchanting view of Cook’s and Opunohu bays, both encircled by lush mountains on three sides. The hike was 14-kilometers, but partially-paved streets graced us with a gradual ascent, plus a kind islander drove us a short portion.

On Moorea, as at most previous stops in French Polynesia, we are continually greeted with “Ia Orana” or “Bonjour” by friendly locals. Life is simple and slow on this Society Island, tempting us to linger a few more days or weeks. But there are more islands to explore and a limited time before hurricane season hits. Also, Polynesian melodies rising from the church remind us that La Fete is drawing near. The 14-day holiday celebrates Bastille Day. People gather from all over French Polynesia for singing and dancing competitions. Our plan is to be in Bora Bora for the festivities.

I glimpsed a small slice of heaven on earth while in Moorea. Yet our heavenly home will be so much more—beyond our limited imaginations. In the meantime, I hope each of you discovers your own piece of paradise here, while awaiting our eternal home…where the true adventure begins.

Then I saw a new heaven and a new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth had passed away, and there was no longer any sea. I saw the Holy City, the new Jerusalem, coming down out of heaven from God, prepared as a bride beautifully dressed for her husband. Revelations 21:1-2

My favorite mode of travel was on our 36-foot Catalina sailboat. Following is an excerpt from my sailing journal.

Land Ho! 23 days of sailing White Dove over 2,000 nautical miles from Mexico found us in the Marquesas—our first South Pacific island. That’s a miracle plus some good navigational skills!

Last night wind carried a scent of change across the water. Just as winter transforms to spring, so our deprived senses awakened with an explosion of smells and colors at dawn. We sail 2 miles off-shore along Hiva Oa’s southern coast headed toward Traitor Bay.

Lacy waterfalls tumble and rugged mountains clothed in jungle, palms, and pines clamber from the sea, peaks shrouded in misty clouds. The hollows of their bays beckon us, hiding secrets in dark verdant valleys. Fragrances of tropical flowers mingle with citrus, mango, decaying breadfruit, and campfires, overwhelming yet inviting us to draw closer.

Out of nowhere a hundred or more round-nosed dolphins surround our sailboat, leaping, somersaulting, and squeaking. They seem as excited as my husband, Jerry, and I are. This welcoming committee accompanies us around the final point, then races off as we enter the harbor of Atuona.

Our seven-year dream, sacrifices, and hard work have led us to this joyous moment. I feel the urge to shout out loud, but within the balmy breeze floats a hushed reverence, like entering a beautiful church. I savor the peace, knowing we will soon be caught up in the whirlwind of landfall—anchoring; checking in with customs, immigration, and the gendarme; laundry; replenishing supplies, and so much more.

For now, I surrender to the splendor of this exotic location, thanking God who created it all; for our safe voyage thus far; and for the gift of this path. All part of His plan and purpose.

You answer us with awesome & righteous deeds, God our Savior, the hope of all the ends of the earth & of the farthest seas, who formed the mountains by your power, having armed yourself with strength, who stilled the roaring of the seas, the roaring of the waves, & the turmoil of the nations. The whole earth is filled with awe at your wonders; where morning dawns, where evening fades, you call forth songs of joy. Psalm 65: 5-8